Behind Every Good Story in Cholila is a Gun
Behind Every Good Story in Cholila is a Gun"The going price to hire a killer in Cholila," our dinner companion tells us, "is 5000 Pesos (about $750)." We are learning…
There’s No Place Like Home — Almost
There's No Place Like Home -- AlmostYesterday, I rode Judy down to Cholila from the lakeside farm of Ivan Hueche, the young guide we hired to take us (successfully this…
Rolling With the Punches (Part II)
You can make out the round corral and paddocks in the grassy area where we campedamong the mice and a raging bull near the Rio Argentino.Rolling With the Punches (Part…
Rolling With the Punches
Don Fuentes allowed the five of us plus our six horses to camp in his back field. Rolling With the Punches "Canela has been badly bitten," Beto tells me. I'm sitting enjoying…
Bittersweet (Agridulce) con’t
You can see a long way in the desert.My last post painted a picture that was more bitter than sweet – more agri than dulce. While I found the wind…
Bittersweet (Agridulce)
It seemed impossible when we set out on January 23, that we would make it no further south than Esquel, a town only 163 kilometers away if you travelled by…
On Argentinean Time
That's me on Judy doing my Butch Cassidy impression.Sharing lamb (capon) with a campesino en route to Esquel.He has spent four months on his own in that cabinfor the last…
As You Might Expect?
Before I started this excursion, I wasn't exactly sure how we were going to make this trip work. How, I wondered, do you ride into a place where you have…
Tigre Glacier Beckons
I once cycled in Tuscany, Italy. Days in advance of our arrival in the fortified city of Volterra, people on the roadside and in the towns along the way would…
Travelling Without a Guidebook
It's often occurred to me that an interesting premise for a travel article would be to visit a place and explore it without the help of a Lonely Planet Guide…