Around Africa on my Bicycle

By Riaan Manser

2007, Jonathan Ball Publishers, Jepperstown, South Africa, 705 pages

I read a lot of books about long bicycle, kayaking and, especially, hiking journeys. My favourite ones include a balance of the author’s personal story, details of the journey and information about the places they visit and the people they meet along the way.

In Around Africa on my Bicycle, author Riaan Manser accomplishes this feat as he cycles for 36,500km! It’s a page-turner (admittedly a long one at 705 pages), highly informative about a continent that’s always fascinated me but about which I know little, a descriptive chronicle of a journey that amazed me, and a chance to observe the sometimes naive but refreshingly honest inner workings of a 20-something-year-old male brain. Reading the book was, as they say, a trip.

In typical fashion, Manser’s decision to “circumnavigate” Africa arises from his being uninspired by his increasingly mundane life. But this Southern African’s book quickly veers into a fascinating and entertaining tale. Now, riding a bike around North America would be a long journey, but it only requires you to pass through three countries. Most importantly, you only have to cross four borders. And while Mexico has some unruly areas, it’s tame when compared with Angola, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Somalia, to name just a few of Africa’s hotspots.

But in 2003, Manser sets off with a good dollop of innocence, limited resources and a level of bravado necessary to cross endless checkpoints manned by machine-gun toting teenagers with nothing better to do than take potshots at some white dude with a long beard riding an overloaded bicycle.

Manser tells of endless interactions with these “lawmakers” as he crossed 35 borders on his 36,500km journey through 34 countries. He went through 120 tires, 90 inner tubes and 15 bicycle chains. Yet somehow, he managed to cover an average of 90 kilometers per day (a long day on a paved road for me), while carrying 45kg of gear plus up to 5kg of water. Not surprisingly, his back wheel didn’t stand up to this load along African “roads” – nor did his toenails; he went through 2 sets of them.

Fascinating and outrageous as his hardship stories from his 808-day journey are, it’s Manser’s connections with people along the way that most amazed me — well that’s not really true, cycling for 36,500km through 35 countries was what astounded me most. Despite being in his late 20s when most men wouldn’t dare inquire about directions, Manser knows how to ask for and accept help from strangers. And these strangers quickly become close friends who go to great lengths to help the young South African realize his dream. But don’t think Manser lacks backbone. As you’ll read, his willingness to take things head on comes out loud and clear. Possible proof is that he refused to pay any bribes on his two-plus-year-long journey. Manser writes that this is, “probably a record in Africa.”

For anyone interested in a long bicycle journey, those who would like to know more about inner Africa or is up for a rip-roaring travel tale, read this book or maybe pick up a newer one: Around Madagascar on my Kayak.

Both books are available online